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ONE MILLION WILD SPIDERS FROM MADAGASCAR
SUPPLIED SILK FOR RARE TEXTILE
ON DISPLAY AT AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY
Lustrous Golden Cloth Made from Undyed Silk
Took Four Years and Some 80 People to Create
A
spectacular and extremely rare textile, woven from golden-colored silk
thread produced by more than one million spiders in Madagascar, goes
on display Wednesday, September 23 in the Museum’s Grand Gallery. This
magnificent contemporary textile, measuring 11 feet by 4 feet, took
four years to make using a painstaking technique developed more than
100 years ago.
This
unique textile was created drawing on the legacy of a French
missionary, Jacob Paul Camboué, who worked with spiders in Madagascar
in the 1880s and 1890s. Camboué worked to collect and weave spider silk
but with limited success, and no surviving textile is now known to
exist. Previously, the only known spider-silk textile of note was
exhibited at the Exposition Universelle in Paris in 1900, and it was
subsequently lost.
(Images: AMNH/R.Mickens)
Producing
the spider silk—the only example of its kind displayed anywhere in the
world—involved the efforts of 70 people who collected spiders daily
from webs on telephone wires, using long poles. These
spiders were all collected during the rainy season (the only time when
they produce silk) from Antananarivo, the capital of Madagascar, and
the surrounding countryside. These giant spider webs are a well-known
feature of the capital, and frequently surprise international visitors. A
dozen more people were needed to draw the silk from the spiders with
hand-powered machines, with each spider producing about 80 feet of silk
filament. This intricately-patterned spider silk features stylized
birds and flowers and is based on a weaving tradition known as lamba
Akotifahana from the highlands of Madagascar, an art reserved for the
royal and upper classes of the Merina people (who are concentrated in
the Central highlands). Silkworm silk has been used for a long period
in Madagascar, however, there is no tradition of weaving spider silk in
Madagascar. In this unique lamba cloth, the individual threads used for weaving are made by twisting 96 to 960 individual spider silk filaments together.
The silk fiber was gathered from the female golden orb spider (Nephila madagascariensis),
which is renowned for the lustrous golden hue of its silk fiber. The
male spider does not produce silk. The golden orb spider of Madagascar
is just one of about 36 members of the Nephila genus. These
spiders are found throughout the tropics and are known as golden orb
weavers for their big, gold-colored webs. The webs can often be seen
between telephone and electrical wires—and are sometimes large enough
to span a one-lane road.
Almost
all silk fabric is made from silkworm moth cocoons, but people have
occasionally tried to make cloth from spider silk. One of the biggest
challenges is the cannibalistic nature of spiders, which makes it very
difficult to raise them in captivity, unlike silkworms. Spiders can be
collected in the wild and then placed in a device to keep them still so
the silk can be drawn. Afterwards, the spiders are released back into
the wild.
For
its weight, spider silk is stronger than steel, but—unlike steel—it can
stretch up to 40% of its normal length. Scientists are trying to
produce this intriguing material artificially on a large scale for
possible uses on the battlefield, in surgery, for space exploration,
and elsewhere. Since raising spiders has proven difficult, researchers
are investigating ways to replicate spider silk to avoid harvesting.
However, spider silk is difficult to mimic in a lab because the silk
begins as a liquid in the spider’s gland, becoming a remarkably strong,
water-resistant solid after following a complicated course through the
spider’s interior.
The
curator for the spider silk is Ian Tattersall, Curator, Division of
Anthropology, with consulting by Norman Platnick, Curator, Division of
Invertebrate Zoology.
The
textile is on loan from Simon Peers and Nicholas Godley. Peers founded
“lamba,” an enterprise specializing in weaving, embroidery, and
passementerie in Madagascar, working with architects and designers
around the world. Lamba’s regular silk textiles have been acquired by
museums including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Art
Institute in Chicago, the National Museum of African Art, the
Smithsonian, and the British Museum. Godley arrived in Madagascar in
1994 and created a small manufacturing company specializing in raffia
products. He launched his first collection of fashion handbags in 1999
at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. In 2005, Godley closed the
factory and moved key personnel and resources to Antananarivo,
Madagascar to work on the spider silk partnership with Peers.
Visitors interested in learning more about traditional silk-making can also visit the Museum’s Traveling the Silk Road: Ancient Pathway to the Modern World,
which opens on November 14. This intriguing exhibition brings to life
one of the greatest trading routes in human history, showcasing the
goods, cultures, and technologies from four representative cities:
Xi’an, China’s Tang Dynasty capital; Turfan, a verdant oasis and
trading outpost; Samarkand, home of prosperous merchants who thrived on
the caravan trade; and ancient Baghdad, a fertile hub of commerce and
scholarship that became the intellectual center of the era.
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Tags: Animals



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